The Magic of La Fortuna: Soaks, Wildlife, and Serene Paddles
The drive into La Fortuna always feels like entering a postcard. The towering Arenal Volcano rises behind a patchwork of forest and farmland, its peak often playing hide-and-seek with the clouds. We’d visited before, but Costa Rica has a way of making even familiar places feel new again.
This trip was part of a longer journey through the country—our latest attempt to experience as much of its beauty as possible, from the southern coast to the misty Cloud Forests of Monteverde. (You can read about our time in Southern Costa Rica here and our Cloud Forest adventure in Monteverde here.) La Fortuna was a natural stop and a favorite. Nestled in the northwest (Northern Highlands), it offers the best of Costa Rica in one place: volcano views, lush rainforest, abundant wildlife, and natural hot springs that invite you to slow down and stay a while.
Coatis on the Road and a Full Menu of Adventure
We drove down from the Cloud Forest, winding our way into Arenal Volcano National Park, around Lake Arenal, to our hotel, Hotel Arenal Kioro Suites & Spa, about 7 miles north of downtown La Fortuna. The park is stunning, with a large lake—the largest in Costa Rica—volcano views, and a rainforest surrounding it. As usual, wildlife was easy to spot as we drove.
At one point, we rounded a bend and had to stop suddenly. A band of coatis was crossing the street. The car ahead pulled over, and the coatis approached without fear, hoping for handouts. Despite their cuteness, feeding wildlife isn’t recommended—coatis become persistent beggars when accustomed to human food, and it’s best for them to stick to their natural diet.
Uninhibited Coatis hoping for food from the humans / Photo by Whaldo Digital Content
Driving around the lake, I noticed plenty of activity: horseback riding, boating, paddleboarding, kayaking, fishing, and hiking. This area is popular because of the lake, volcano, natural hot springs, and rainforest teeming with wildlife. Here, I’ve had the best luck spotting sloths and all four species of Costa Rican monkeys.
Springs, Suites, and Cloud-Hiding Peaks
After circling the lake, we found our hotel but kept driving in search of lunch. Half a mile from the turnoff, we discovered Soda La Palma, a small local spot serving classic Costa Rican fare. It was a delicious detour—simple, flavorful, and precisely what we needed after the drive.
Once checked in, we spent the afternoon relaxing by the pool and soaking in the hotel’s hot springs. Each room has its own hot tub, but we preferred the communal springs and never bothered with the tub. The view of the volcano from our room was excellent, although clouds often hid its peak in this rainforest climate.
We went to bed early after a light dinner at the hotel that evening. Following a fresh fruit-filled breakfast the next morning, we drove 20 minutes to explore downtown La Fortuna. Though we’d visited before, we’d never taken the time to stroll around town. I’m not much of a shopper, but I’m a browser.
A Stroll Through Downtown La Fortuna
Downtown La Fortuna charmed us immediately. At its heart was a vibrant town square—a lush park bursting with flowering plants, palm trees, and a water feature adding a soft soundtrack to the afternoon. We languidly wandered the paths, explored side streets lined with small shops, and allowed ourselves to sink into the laid-back rhythm of daily life. Like everywhere we’ve been in Costa Rica, the people were warm, the streets felt safe, and the pace was refreshingly unhurried.
As the sun hit its peak in the sky, as if on cue, the clouds moved in and the familiar patter of afternoon rain began. We slipped into La Choza del Sabor, a welcoming, open-air, two-story restaurant (recently closed to relocate). We grabbed a spot upstairs, ordered a couple of cervezas and an appetizer to share, and spent a lazy hour chatting with locals (Ticos, as Costa Ricans affectionately call themselves) and watching the world below.
On our way back to the hotel that evening, we followed a Tico’s recommendation and stopped at Arenal Bongos. The place buzzed with tourists and locals alike—a sure sign we were in for something good. And we were. The food was flavorful and satisfying, a meal to remember. The fajitas with all the fresh veggies were the hit of the night.
The following morning, we checked out of Hotel Arenal Kioro Suites & Spa and checked into Paradise Hot Springs. We made the move just to try another hot springs experience—there are plenty in the area, and it’s fun to sample different ones. We spent the day enjoying the new hotel’s offerings.
A River Runs Blue: Hiking to Rio Celeste
After a restful day and night, we rose early the next morning to visit Tenorio Volcano National Park, home to the Celeste River, its magnificent blue waterfall, and pristine lagoon. We drove about 40 miles to reach the park and spent four hours exploring and hiking its trails.
True to Costa Rican weather, rain began about two hours into our hike. While others ran for cover, we put on our trusty rain ponchos and pressed on.
The hike was relatively easy, with the stairs up and down to the waterfall being the most challenging part. The blue lagoon was breathtaking—where the Celeste River meets volcanic waters, the color shifts from greenish to a brilliant, almost surreal light blue. Nature is truly spectacular.
The Celeste River meets volcanic waters / Photo by Whaldo Digital Content
Capuchin Drama on the Bridge
On our way out of the National Park, we encountered a young couple hesitant to cross a bridge. A family of white-faced capuchins—small but known as the most aggressive monkeys in Costa Rica—was leaping along the handrails and into the trees surrounding the bridge.
The dominant male was separated from his females and juveniles by the bridge, and we four stood at the bridge’s entrance, in his view, blocking their path. We hadn’t even stepped onto the bridge, and he was already yelling at us.
The male monkey intimidated the couple, but my husband and I had already had close-up experiences with these monkeys throughout our Costa Rican adventures. We always respect them and their habitat and know how to walk past without incident.
Our plan was simple: place the young couple between us and cross the bridge quickly and confidently. My husband suggested that we all walk together, with the smaller ones in the middle, to appear larger and offer the young couple protection. Once we were all in position— with the couple giggling nervously— we moved as one. The dominant male screeched the entire time, while his family remained frozen in place, clearly awaiting his signal.
White-Faced Capuchin Monkeys screeching at us / Photo by Whaldo Digital Content
Once safely across, I glanced back to see that the family had reunited. The male watched us like a grumpy neighbor warning us to stay off his lawn. The young couple thanked us and continued happily on their way.
Crisis averted.
That night, after our active day, we relaxed in the hotel’s hot springs and enjoyed a simple dinner in the hotel restaurant. It’s funny how the exhilaration of sights and sounds of a new adventure exhausts you even on a relatively easy hike. We slept well that night.
Kayaking the Frío River: A Wildlife Lover’s Dream
With the sun barely up, we rose early the next day, grabbed a quick bite, and hit the road for the 45-mile drive to Los Chiles, a small town near the entrance to Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge. Two days earlier, while wandering downtown La Fortuna, we’d booked a guided kayak tour along the Frío River—an experience new to us and one we’d been eagerly anticipating.
The tour began within the refuge, where we quietly paddled through lush, winding waterways. As the river drifted northward, we crossed into Nicaraguan waters, eventually transferring to a small boat for the return journey. Happily, we didn’t have to kayak against the current—something my husband and I both appreciated. Before reaching our starting point (now our end point), we stopped for lunch at a local home nestled along the riverbank.
The journey—both kayak and boat—was peaceful and teeming with wildlife. It felt like a National Geographic special. We spotted a dazzling array of birds, several sunbathing caimans, an alligator, three monkey species (spider monkeys, white-faced capuchins, and howlers), a curious river otter, lizards, iguanas, and tiny bats dangling sleepily from branches over the water. While enjoying lunch, I spotted a two-toed sloth lounging high in a nearby tree.
The tour lasted about five hours and quickly became one of my favorite Costa Rican experiences. You can see many of these animals in zoos—but encountering them in their natural rainforest habitat is something else entirely. It’s humbling, magical, and unforgettable.
Afterward, we drove around in the Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge, stopping often to quietly observe animals in their natural environment. It was an unforgettable day.
We spent four more hours in the refuge before returning to our La Fortuna hotel. Since it was our last night in town, we soaked once again in the hot springs and reflected on the past few days over a traditional Costa Rican dinner and a glass of wine.
Pura Vida Reflections: What This Trip Left Behind
The next morning, after a delicious buffet breakfast, we checked out and drove three hours to San José for our final night at the Gran Hotel San José, Costa Rica, Curio Collection by Hilton. We chose to stay close and take it easy, taking in the city’s atmosphere without venturing far.
After a restful night, we returned the rental car and flew home. Fifteen days passed in a blur of waterfalls, rainforests, and warm conversations. I took fewer photos during this trip, but somehow, I remember more. That’s the magic of Costa Rica—it invites you to live in the moment, slow down, and embrace the Pura Vida mindset, one sloth sighting at a time.
Practical Travel Notes
La Fortuna is one of Costa Rica’s most visited destinations, and it’s easy to see why. With epic views of Arenal Volcano, lush rainforest, and some of the best hot springs in Costa Rica, it’s a must on any Costa Rica itinerary. Prices reflect its popularity, but with a little planning, La Fortuna, Costa Rica travel can still be affordable and rewarding. Renting a car allows you to explore, and mixing local sodas with the occasional splurge makes eating out fun and budget-friendly.
Hotels:
Hotel Arenal Kioro Suites & Spa – Spacious suites with private hot tubs, sweeping volcano views, and access to serene hot spring pools. It is one of the more luxurious hot springs resorts in La Fortuna, perfect for travelers seeking comfort and a great location.
Paradise Hot Springs – A peaceful, more budget-friendly option just outside downtown. Smaller and less crowded, it offers beautifully landscaped pools and tropical gardens—ideal for relaxing after a full day of exploring.
Hotel Camp Verde—This small hotel has modern wooden cabin-style rooms designed especially for couples, families, long stays, or weekend breaks. It has great views of the Arenal Volcano.
Restaurants:
Soda La Palma – A small, casual spot just off the main road serving traditional Costa Rican dishes. A local favorite and great for budget-conscious travelers.
Arenal Bongos – A lively restaurant popular with both locals and tourists. Great vibe, delicious meals (especially the veggie fajitas), and a fun way to experience local food in La Fortuna.
Local sodas (Costa Rican diners) are everywhere and offer the best value for authentic Costa Rican cuisine.
Notes about Food and Water:
Meals in La Fortuna are fresh and satisfying—grilled meats, Gallo pinto (rice and beans), plantains, tropical fruit, and fresh juices. Tap water is generally safe in most hotels and restaurants, but bottled water is easy to find if you’d rather play it safe. Bring fresh water on your hikes.
Things to Do in La Fortuna (other than the classic white rapids, zip lining, and hanging bridges):
Arenal Volcano National Park – Hike scenic trails with wildlife and volcano views.
Hot Springs in La Fortuna – Try hotel springs or day passes at resorts like Tabacón or EcoTermales.
Rio Celeste Waterfall – Located in Tenorio Volcano National Park, about 90 minutes away.
Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge – Kayaking or boat tours from Los Chiles.
Downtown La Fortuna – Explore shops, cafes, and the charming town plaza.
About Local Guides:
Hiring a guide isn’t always necessary, but it can be worth it—especially for hikes or wildlife tours in Caño Negro. Local guides are skilled at spotting animals, explaining ecology, and making your experience deeper and more memorable. For wildlife lovers, a guide can turn a good day into a great one.
Packing Tips for La Fortuna:
Lightweight rain jacket or poncho (it rains often!)
Quick-dry clothes for humid weather and hikes
Swimsuits for hot springs (more than one!)
Sturdy water shoes or hiking sandals
Bug repellent and reef-safe sunscreen
Waterproof daypack
Binoculars or a zoom lens for wildlife watching
- J.S. Whaldo
