Waterfalls, Wildlife, and Whale Watching: A Personal Journey Through Southern Costa Rica
How can a country the size of West Virginia feel so vast, so wild, and so alive? With misty rainforests, vibrant toucans, and warm Pacific sunsets, Costa Rica is more than a destination—it's an awakening. Nestled between Nicaragua and Panama, with coasts on two oceans, it offers a dazzling range of natural experiences in a surprisingly compact space.
Often described as heaven on earth, Costa Rica earns that praise and then some. Having explored the country over several visits, my husband and I have learned the best way to experience this paradise is slowly—savoring its landscapes, wildlife, and rhythms.
If you’re planning a trip to Costa Rica and wondering where to go for wildlife, waterfalls, and whale watching, southern Costa Rica—especially Uvita and Ojochal—offers unforgettable experiences.
Exploring at Our Own Pace
Each time we visit Costa Rica, we rent a car and travel on our own timeline. Navigation is surprisingly easy thanks to Google Maps and strong wireless coverage in most areas. It’s fun to drive through the countryside, scanning the trees for monkeys and sloths—creatures we’ve spotted often and almost everywhere.
We began this trip with a hiccup involving our accommodations (which you can read about here), but once resolved, our exploration of southern Costa Rica truly began.
Villas Azul and a Fortunate First Night
Our first night led us—serendipitously—to Villas Azul, a boutique hotel perched above Marino Ballena National Park. The co-owner, Arno Finkeldey, generously offered us a room for the night, and we discovered paradise on his beautiful property. He also helped us secure additional lodging since he couldn’t host us for four nights: his kindness, pride in his property, and willingness to help made a lasting impression.
Following Arno’s recommendation, that evening, we headed just south of Ojochal to Restaurante Terraba, a breezy open-air restaurant known for fresh ceviche and seafood. The food was so good we returned—twice. Local, relaxed, and unpretentious, it quickly became a favorite.
Uvita, Whale Tails, and Geckos
The next morning, after coffee and complimentary fruit by the pool under the Palapa, we drove north to Uvita, walked the iconic Whale’s Tail beach, and explored the white sandy coastline. Lunch was at Los Barillas, where we enjoyed fish tacos and cold beer.
With full bellies and sun-kissed skin, we drove south to Cristal Ballena, a 30-acre hillside resort that would be our home base for the next few days. Since we had no excursion plans that afternoon, we spent the rest of the day at the pool. We enjoyed the view and sipped coconut water and a cocktail or two.
As the final rays of sunset faded, we made our way down the hill to dinner at Restaurante y Bar Fusion, 5 miles south, just past Ojochal. This restaurant is another open-air roadside restaurant. We both ordered seafood here. The seafood in Southern Costa Rica is so fresh and delicious. It’s a must when visiting.
As our seafood plates arrived, a small gecko dropped from the bamboo ceiling onto mine. The little guy quickly scrambled off, and after a moment of surprise and laughter, we continued our meal. It was a reminder that in Costa Rica, nature doesn’t just surround you—it joins you for dinner.
Back at our hotel that night, we encountered an unexpected visitor: a giant grasshopper outside our door. I am a massive fan of wildlife, and this includes bugs. Costa Rica has some fascinating bugs! This particular grasshopper was giant—the size of my husband’s hand. It was a treat to observe him up close. Little things like this add to the adventure of Costa Rica.
Mornings with Toucans and Mangrove Kayaking
We woke early the next day to the distinct and loud call of yellow-throated toucans right outside our room. I leapt out of bed and ran to the patio—completely naked. My husband, long used to my spontaneity, handed me a robe and joined me to admire the birds.
Once the toucans took flight toward distant branches, we began getting ready for the day ahead. We stopped by the breakfast buffet for a pastry and coffee before heading south to the Terraba Sierpe National Wetlands for a mangrove kayaking adventure with Dolphin Tours.
Kayaking the Terraba Sierpe National Wetlands with Dolphin Tours / Photo by Whaldo Digital Content
Once there, we met our guide, Michael, from the Dolphin Tour company. As he prepared the kayak and gear for us, we watched a family of beautiful Scarlet Macaws soaring overhead, their bright feathers a stunning contrast against the deep green of the mangroves.
Our guide, Michael, led us deeper into the mangroves, where the still water and the rustling trees created a sense of tranquility. We marveled at the various bird species we spotted, and Michael shared stories about the unique ecosystem. We kayaked for four hours, stopping only once for fresh coconuts he retrieved by climbing a Coconut Palm tree, which provided us with fresh coconut water and fruit.
Tip: Bring a head net. The no-see-ums (tiny gnats) don’t bite, but they will drive you nuts for the paddle's first and last ten minutes.
Hidden Waterfalls and Local Charm
With the kayak adventure behind us, we followed Michael’s suggestion and took a detour to Cascada El Pavon, a local favorite swimming hole. We found the gravel road turn-off and started following it until we saw many cars lined along it. We parked and easily found the trailhead leading to a lovely waterfall and swimming hole.
People of all ages were jumping into the clear water from the waterfall above. We joined them—cooling off, laughing, and sharing a perfect afternoon with strangers. A couple we spoke to that day said it’s not a good choice during the rainy season because the waterfall becomes fierce, and the water is murky and turbulent. However, on this day, it was perfect.
Later that afternoon, we returned to Cristal Ballena to unwind before dinner. That night, we dined at Villa Leonor Ballena Beach Club, a family-run restaurant with locally sourced dishes. We had chicken with tropical salsa and called it an early night. Getting up with the sun (and the birds) leads to early nights.
Whales, Empanadas, and a Return to Paradise
On our last full day, in Southern Costa Rica, we got up early and headed for our final excursion. We stopped at Panaderia Bakery Deli Uvita, where my dear husband picked up a morning pastry, while I opted for some fresh fruit that I had snagged at the hotel.
We went to Dolphin Tours’ main office in Uvita, where we met Michael. He introduced us to his two children, whom we had heard about on our previous day's tour. Today, we were going whale watching, but we arrived early to visit with our new friend. With this tour, we also received a wristband to remain in Marino Ballena National Park for the day after the whale watching adventure.
The waters off Uvita are ideal for seeing humpbacks from both hemispheres, and we were lucky enough to witness two mother whales with calves and pods of dolphins dancing through the water. Watching a baby whale practice tail splashing and breaching is pure joy.
Afterwards, we bid farewell to our new friends and drove south to explore Bambu Beach. Our goal was to find an empanada place I had heard about. We drove along the bumpy, dirt beach road and found El Hornita. It didn’t disappoint—crispy, savory empanadas.
Due to its free wi-fi and budget-friendly menu, El Hornita is a favorite for young travelers traveling the country, one hostel at a time. True to its reputation, we encountered a few backpackers there enjoying empanadas and wi-fi, checking in with their families, and taking care of business before heading on to their next adventures.
While enjoying our meal and chatting with some young travelers, my husband received a call from Arno at Villas Azul. He invited us to stay at his hotel for our final night in the southern Costa Rica region, and we happily accepted his generous offer.
Butterflies, Birdsongs, and Farewell Moments in Southern Costa Rica
My dear husband enjoying Catarata Uvita with friendly locals / Photo by Whaldo Digital Content
Before sunset, we visited Catarata Uvita, another nearby waterfall with natural slides, butterfly gardens, and hummingbirds in all sizes and colors. It was a fitting last adventure in this richly biodiverse part of the world.
Our final night was spent at Restaurante Terraba and Villas Azul—the perfect bookends to our stay. We enjoyed the final sunset and, in the morning, the morning symphony of birds. With heartfelt goodbyes behind us, we turned northward, ready for the next chapter.
As we drove toward Monteverde’s cloud forests, I looked in the rearview mirror at Uvita fading behind us. Costa Rica had once again reminded me that nature’s magic doesn’t require grandeur—just quiet moments, open eyes, and the willingness to follow a dirt road to the unexpected.
Practical Travel Notes
One of the first things to note is that Costa Rica is not an inexpensive destination. It was once known as one of the most affordable places to live and visit, but that is no longer the case. The world has discovered this paradise, and Costa Rica is now a popular destination, with eco-tourism in full swing and prices to match. However, with planning, you can travel economically—especially by renting a car and choosing simple accommodations.
Hotels:
Villas Azul – A boutique hotel south of Uvita with incredible views, jungle paths, and a peaceful vibe. Great for groups, retreats, or romantic getaways.
Cristal Ballena—A hillside resort with a pool, spa, restaurant, and expansive grounds. Quiet and resort-like fee.
Restaurants:
Restaurante Terraba
Restaurante y Bar Fusion
Villa Leonor Ballena Beach Club
Any local Soda (diner-style restaurants with hearty, affordable meals)
Notes about the food and water: Costa Rican food is fresh, simple, and mild. Seafood is abundant, and the water in Uvita is filtered and safe to drink.
Things to Do:
Packing Tips:
Bring a head net for mangrove areas
A reusable water bottle (tap water in Uvita is safe)
Water shoes for waterfalls and beaches
- J.S. Whaldo
