Best Laid Plans: A Lodging Mishap Turns Into Paradise in Uvita, Costa Rica
Costa Rica is one of my top three destinations, and my husband and I have visited multiple times. Costa Rica has perfected eco-tourism, and our favorite way to experience it is by renting a car and exploring the country ourselves.
As I’ve mentioned in previous writings, I have particular things I do to plan our trips. True to form, when we decided to go back to Costa Rica, we decided to explore a couple of new areas that we hadn’t seen before. I opened the map, and I immediately knew that we needed to see southern Costa Rica on this journey. Corcovado National Park was on my radar.
After conducting extensive research (including reading, watching vlogs, making inquiries with AI, and creating lists), we concluded that we weren’t quite ready for a full-blown camping adventure. We opted instead to visit the Uvita area, then head to the Monteverde Cloud Forest, and conclude our trip in one of our favorite areas, La Fortuna.
When planning these types of trips, my husband and I each have our roles, utilizing our skills. After years of traveling for work, he has become an expert at finding reasonable airfare prices and securing clean, comfortable accommodations. I, on the other hand, am skilled at researching things to do, choosing scenic routes, and often finding fantastic “off the beaten path” activities.
With our plans in place, off we flew to Costa Rica. We arrived late at San Jose's Juan Santamaria Airport, picked up our rental car, and drove for about an hour to Jaco, where we stayed for one night before heading further south to Uvita the following morning.
My dear husband drove, while I kept an eye out for sloths, monkeys, and fresh fruit stands along the way. The fruit in Costa Rica is delicious, and you can find fruit stands right along the side of the highway. You will also find bus stops and pedestrian crosswalks. Needless to say, you don’t drive very fast in this country, unless you’re a local taxi driver or tour bus operator.
Checking In... to Someone’s Backyard?
As we neared our hotel, Big Bamboo Uvita, the address led us into a residential neighborhood. If you’ve ever been to Costa Rica, you know that finding an address can be tricky—some places don’t even have one. Locals often give directions using landmarks: Go past the church, turn right at the soda, then left at the corner, and your destination is behind the blue house with the flower garden.
We drove very slowly, trying to find our hotel, and I realized that we were not going to a hotel. It was going to be a house. My husband showed me the directions that he had received in an email, and true to form, we were looking for a blue van in a driveway. My immediate reaction was to look at my husband and ask him if he knew we were staying at someone’s house, and if he had even bothered to look up the reviews. He sighed, and that said it all.
We pulled into a driveway, hoping this was the right place. In front of us was a house, to the left a pool and pool house, and to the right a two-story building painted with a green and yellow bamboo jungle mural. We walked toward the pool house, which also served as the dining area, and found a sign instructing us to check in—but no one was there to greet us.
My husband did the logical thing and called the number on our reservation. A woman answered, apologizing for her absence; she had run out for an errand, but said her daughter would show us to our room. We could check in when she returned.
A few minutes later, a girl of about 13 or 14 emerged from the house, schoolbook in hand, and apologized for the wait. She obviously wasn’t thrilled to have her studies interrupted. She told us to follow her. We grabbed our bags and trailed her around the “jungle” building to a new staircase leading to a second-level door—unfortunately, so new it lacked a handrail.
The Decision to Leave: When Safety Trumps Plans
My husband froze. His eyes glazed over—no doubt flashing back to every time I’ve tripped, stumbled, or face-planted over the years.
He didn’t want to go any farther. But the girl had already marched up and was waiting politely. I wasn’t about to be rude. My loving husband knew better than to argue when I’ve set my mind to something, so he asked me to leave my bag on the first step before climbing. I did, and carefully ascended, him right behind me, ready to catch me if I fell.
The room was cozy: a king-sized bed, air conditioning, a rolling clothes rack, and a full bathroom. Clean, breezy, nothing wrong—except for the stairs that got us there.
My dear husband stood silently in the doorway. When the girl offered him the key, he wouldn’t take it. He asked if any rooms on the ground floor were available. Confused, she said no.
He walked out onto the landing and stared into the distance. I tried to reassure him, but he turned to me and said firmly, “I love you, but we’re not staying here. We’re leaving. Now.”
So, slowly, we made our way back down—he in front, me holding onto his shoulder like a reluctant hiker on a cliff trail. The poor girl, clearly unsure what to do, pulled out her phone and called her mom. After a few quiet words, she handed it to my husband, who calmly explained we wouldn’t be staying. We loaded our bags, pulled away, and lost our deposit.
Once we were off that street, I asked for an explanation. He stopped the car, turned to me, and said, “My love, this is an accident waiting to happen. I can’t watch you put your life in danger on those stairs with no railing, and I don’t want to go through our time here with the stress of knowing there’s a good chance you’ll fall. It’s just too dangerous for a clumsy person like you.”
Blunt. But accurate.
Driving Blind: The Hunt for a New Place to Stay
As we drove out of the neighborhood, I asked what the plan was. It was simple: grab lunch, find a hotel while we ate. But there were no vacancies. Now what? Get back in the car and drive south. My darling husband was sure we'd stumble on something—not everything is on Google, he insisted.
I stared out the window, trying to distract myself by searching for sloths, monkeys, anything—but the jungle just closed in thicker around us. No hotels. No sloths or monkeys. Just endless green and a rising panic in my chest as the road narrowed and the jungle started to swallow us. Mile after mile, I braced for the idea we might end up sleeping in the car.
Finally, we turned around and headed north toward Uvita. Yes, we could've driven 150 miles back to Jaco, but we couldn’t give up that easily. We had plans here—walking Whale’s Tail Beach, kayaking the mangroves, chasing waterfalls. We had a plan!
A Fortuitous Encounter: Meeting Mr. Finkeldey
After driving for what felt like an eternity without finding any viable options, we finally spotted a small sign for Villas Azul. Though it seemed more like a private driveway than a hotel, my husband decided to investigate. I, however, remained skeptical. My husband parked and got out of the car. I stayed planted in my seat, convinced we were trespassing.
While I frantically searched for other hotel options on Google, I heard voices outside. A man with a familiar North American accent was talking to my husband. I finally got out of the car to join the conversation.
His name was Mr. Arno Finkeldey; he was from New Jersey and a co-owner of the property. He explained that Villas Azul at Playa Ballena was a growing boutique hotel, with three cabins completed so far, and more in the works. He shared the history of owning the land and the struggles they had faced to reach this point in their vision for the charming hotel. He and his wife were there temporarily, alternating seasons with his business partner, while a local manager handled day-to-day operations.
Mr. Finkeldey offered us a tour, proudly showing off the lush jungle surroundings, the cliffside view of Ballena Marine National Park, and the delightful cabins. It was paradise.
Unfortunately, they were fully booked, like every other hotel we had looked up. Reluctantly, we thanked him and prepared to leave. That’s when he stopped us.
“One room is open for tonight, but only tonight,” he said. “If you want it.”
We didn’t hesitate. Mr. Finkeldey led us to a cozy room with a patio overlooking the ocean, with fluffy towels, a comfortable bed, a full bathroom, and an outdoor shower—pure paradise, even for just one night.
After we settled into our room, we went to dinner. While we were at dinner, my husband called Cristal Ballena, the resort Mr. Finkeldey had recommended. They had vacancies—and great prices. At last, we had secured lodging for our four nights in Uvita.
Pura Vida.
Sunset from the patio/deck at Villas Azul / Photo by Whaldo Digital Content
Birdwatcher’s Paradise: A Sunrise to Remember
Back at Villas Azul, we watched a sensational sunset from our patio, shared a bottle of wine, and promptly fell asleep in a very comfortable bed, lulled to sleep by the sounds of singing frogs, lapping waves of the ocean, and the exhaustion that came with the relief of anxiety. As soon as the sun rose around 5:00 AM the next day, the cacophony ensued.
I tried to shut out the early morning noise, hoping for more sleep, while my husband resigned himself to getting up. He made coffee and stepped out onto the patio. Ten minutes later, he was back, urging me to join him. I didn’t want to—this was supposed to be a vacation, after all—but the noise was impossible to ignore.
I stepped outside to see my husband grinning, clearly excited. The sun was just rising, casting a golden glow over a clear blue sky. The air was alive with the sounds of birds—so many birds! Parrots, macaws, songbirds, and even the occasional hawk filled the trees, creating a symphony of sound. As birdwatchers, we were in awe of the sheer number and variety, something we’d never experienced before.
After we had a couple of cups of coffee, the chorus quieted, and we decided to explore.
The path to the beach passed a flourishing vegetable garden nestled among the jungle plants.
As we walked down the jungle trail, we met Mr. Finkeldey along the way. We eagerly shared our morning experience, and he laughed, sharing our appreciation for the bird symphony.
Once at the beach, we were alone except for a colony of crabs scurrying along the sand. The jungle pressed close, and the ocean stretched out before us, wild and empty. After watching the crabs for a while, we made our way back up to check out, our hearts full from the unexpected beauty of the morning.
Before we left, Mr. Finkeldey and my husband exchanged WhatsApp numbers. We thanked him for his hospitality and the unforgettable experience, then drove off toward Uvita, happy and content with our unplanned adventure.
In Uvita, we spent the day walking Whale’s Tail Beach, having lunch, and confirming our excursion bookings. We then headed to Cristal Ballena, a 30-acre hillside resort with comfortable rooms and a friendly staff.
Travel Lessons Learned: Embracing the Unexpected
Over the next few days, we explored Uvita, just not from our originally planned “home base.” On the fourth day, Mr. Finkeldey called with good news: a room was nearly ready, perfect for guests who didn’t mind forgoing a few frills. He invited us to stay there for our last night. Thrilled at the prospect of another colorful sunset and a morning symphony of birds, we eagerly accepted.
At Cristal Ballena, the management graciously waived the charge for our early departure. Back at Villas Azul, we returned to the private beach and explored more trails. We showered in the outdoor shower, basking in the sounds of nature, and spent the evening on the patio, watching the sunset.
As the morning birds woke us once more, we enjoyed our coffee on the patio before packing up to continue our Costa Rican journey—next stop, the Cloud Forest of Monteverde. As we left, I hugged Mr. Finkeldey and his wife goodbye, genuinely grateful for their warm hospitality.
Sometimes, The Best Places Find You When You're Completely Lost.
Looking back on the Uvita portion of our trip, we treasure the kindness of the people we met and the unexpected gems we discovered. It set the tone for the rest of our Costa Rican adventure, reminding us that sometimes the best journeys unfold when you stray off the beaten path.
From that trip onward, my dear husband was no longer allowed to book our lodging without my prior research and approval—a new rule in our travel planning. While surprises still catch us off guard, we've learned that the best-laid plans don’t always work out. (You can read about our most recent snafu here.)
When we set off for Costa Rica, we thought we had everything perfectly planned, with safe, comfortable lodging at the top of the list. We certainly didn’t expect to spend an entire day hunting for accommodations. At the time, it felt like a wasted day, but in hindsight, it wasn’t wasted at all. It was an unplanned detour into paradise, accompanied by the symphony of Costa Rican wildlife.
Enjoy your travels—you never know when an unexpected journey will lead you to paradise.
- J.S. Whaldo
