Beyond Sydney: Scenic Roads, Kangaroos, and Conversations That Stayed With Us
There’s something exhilarating about that first day in a new country—when jet lag meets adrenaline and everything feels possible. Australia had been on our list for years, and from the moment we touched down, it delivered. This wasn’t just another trip—it was the beginning of a journey filled with coastal drives, unexpected wildlife, good food, and even better people.
Welcome to Australia
If you’ve read my past travel posts, you know how much we love to explore—and how much planning goes into it. Our trip to Australia was no different. In this post, I’ll tell you about our time spent outside of Sydney, and I’ll follow up with another post about our time in the city.
After months of reading, watching vlogs, and consulting with our friend, Ms. Rhonda, in Orange, Australia, we finalized our plans and completed our bookings. Our trip was in late January. We flew Qantas direct from Los Angeles to Sydney.
First Impressions: Qantas and Mascot Wandering
We stayed our first night near the airport at the Holiday Inn Express. Since we were arriving in the late afternoon, we expected to be exhausted after the fourteen-hour flight. Usually, I don’t sleep well on planes, but this was our first time flying Qantas—and we were not prepared for how wonderful it was.
My dear husband, always concerned about my back issues and inability to sleep on long flights, booked us Premium Economy. We had watched a YouTube video about it, and it looked promising. Qantas exceeded our expectations!
The seats were spacious and sincerely felt more like first class on other airlines. The food was good, and—miracle of miracles—we both slept well. So well, in fact, that although we’d planned to crash at the hotel, we were ready to explore as soon as we landed.
After checking in and freshening up, we took a walk around the Mascot district, where the airport is located. There’s a mix of businesses, shops, hotels, and restaurants, and we wandered aimlessly for a while before grabbing refreshments and doing a bit of people watching. We opted for an early dinner and bedtime so we could get an early start the next morning, pick up our rental car, and hit the road.
Hitting the Road: Grand Pacific Sea Cliffs Drive
The next morning, after picking up the rental car from Simba Car Rental, my husband carefully drove us out of Sydney, our destination being Kangaroo Valley, which we planned to reach via a roundabout route.
We started by joining the Grand Pacific Sea Cliffs Drive near Stanwell Park. From there, we followed Lawrence Hargrave Drive, making plenty of stops at scenic viewpoints, including the Sea Cliff Bridge. We eventually merged onto the B65.
We drove through the Wollongong area, where city gave way to surf, and made a stop at Port Kembla—just long enough for a few photos and to learn a bit of history. We stayed on the B65 until passing Lake Illawarra, then merged back onto the M1 and continued south.
The Grand Pacific Drive with the Sea Cliff Bridge coming up. / Photo by Whaldo Digital Content
Coastal Gems: Beaches, Blowholes, and Berry Donuts
When we veered off the M1 again, it was to get closer to the coast. In Minnamurra, we stopped at the Whale Watching Platform, passed by Jones Beach, and spent time at Cathedral Rocks. Each stop was a gem, and since we weren’t on a schedule, we took our time.
In Kiama, we visited the lighthouse, walked a stretch of the Kiama Coast Walk, and explored Blowhole Point. It didn’t matter where we stopped—it was all lovely, and the weather couldn’t have been better.
Next up was Berry. And if you’ve watched any vlogs about day trips out of Sydney, you already know what’s coming—the Berry Donut Van.
I’m not a big sweets gal, but I wasn’t going to pass up the chance to try something this iconic. We ordered the special: a vanilla milkshake and two cinnamon-sugar donuts each. The line was long, but the staff had the flow down to a science, and soon we were sitting on their covered patio with our treats.
The donuts were warm and fluffy—classic cake donuts, and absolutely delicious. Something a vanilla milkshake would pair perfectly with.
I just assumed that I would receive something thick enough to require a spoon or, at least, a sturdy straw. What I got instead was…different. Lighter. Frothier.
Less ice cream, more flavored milk, doing a happy little shimmy in a tall cup.
To be clear, it wasn’t bad—it was just not the milkshake of my childhood. This one could actually be sipped—no brain freeze lurking behind the first gulp. I LOVE surprises like this when traveling! It worked perfectly with the sweet donuts, as they required milk, and the vanilla milk was not too sweet. Later, I learned that if you want the thicker, ice-cream version in Australia, you need to ask for a “thickshake.” Consider this your travel tip.
Into the Forest: Kangaroo Valley Magic
From Berry, we picked up Tourist Drive 7—a twisting, narrow mountain road that felt more like a secret passage than an actual route. It climbed sharply through dense forest, with sharp curves, steep drop-offs, and just enough blind corners to keep things interesting—and by interesting, I mean a little bit terrifying. We passed through Bellawongarah—a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it dot on the map—before the road dipped and curved again, eventually delivering us into the wide green calm of Kangaroo Valley.
The vibe changed immediately. It was cooler, quieter, and slower-paced. Tourists, yes, but mostly locals on summer holiday. The town was small and charming, with boutique hotels, cozy restaurants, and just enough shops. Surrounded by forest and farmland, it felt tucked away—campgrounds hidden among the trees, just far enough off the road to blend into the landscape.
We checked into our little boutique hotel, The Wildes. While going through the check-in process, I asked the gentleman at the desk—Alex—if I might see kangaroos while we were in the area. He smiled patiently, pulled out a map, and pointed to the historic Hampden Bridge just a few blocks away. “Just past it,” he said, was Bendeela Road, a quiet dirt track. “Go around dusk,” he said, “and you’ll almost definitely spot kangaroos—and maybe wombats too.” My heart soared.
Since we were only staying one night, we stashed our bags in the room and headed out to explore a bit before sunset. After walking the main drag, we ended up right across the street from The Wildes at The Friendly Inn Hotel. We grabbed a couple of pints and joined the locals in the back room, watching families and dogs enjoy the sprawling lawn behind the pub. A simple dinner of beef burgers and chips hit the spot.
Wild Encounters: Kangaroos, Wombats, and a Kookaburra
As the light began to soften, we hopped in the car and drove toward Hampden Bridge, crossing over the Kangaroo River and turning onto Bendeela Road just as Alex had advised. Almost immediately, we saw what we’d hoped for—kangaroos! Troops of them dotted the open fields, grazing in the golden hour light. My husband pulled over so I could hop out, take some photos, and just soak it in.
A little further on, as we passed some homes tucked back from the road, I saw them—two wombats munching away in someone’s front yard. I doubt the homeowners were thrilled, but I was absolutely giddy.
Back in the car, we kept driving slowly down Bendeela Road, soaking it all in. At one point, my husband spotted another dirt road and turned onto it—“just to see where it goes.” It led us to a tucked-away campground we hadn’t even known was there. There wasn’t anywhere to turn around except inside the campground entrance, so we pulled up to the little check-in hut to ask.
The man at the gate couldn’t have been nicer. “Go on in,” he said, “have a look around.”
We cruised slowly through the campground, barely above a crawl. Wildlife was everywhere (and I’m not referring to the children)—ducks with chicks, bright birds, and yes, more wombats.
The campground ran alongside the Kangaroo River and had a sort of secret-paradise feel—completely off our radar until we’d stumbled into it. After a slow and satisfying loop, we waved a thank you to the man at the entrance and headed back the way we came.
Just as we rounded a corner onto Bendeela Road, I shouted for my husband to stop. Used to my occasional (okay, frequent) outbursts, he eased us to a safe stop and glanced around. “What did you see?”
On a fence post, not far behind us, was a Laughing Kookaburra. My first ever. It wouldn’t be the last, but that first one felt special. That strange, prehistoric bird with its oversized head and its cackling laugh? Unforgettable.
We could’ve gone home right then and there, and it would’ve still been one of my favorite trips. And this was only day two.
The next morning, we had breakfast at The Wildes, and to this day, we talk about how good it was—easily one of our favorite meals of the trip. After checking out, we headed toward the Blue Mountains, with one planned stop along the way: Fitzroy Falls.
Waterfalls and Birdsongs: Fitzroy Falls
Fitzroy Falls is in Morton National Park, where water spills over sandstone cliffs into the lush green valley below. It had recently rained, so the falls were flowing hard, and the sound of rushing water accompanied us as we walked the well-marked paths.
We stopped constantly to take in the views—mist rising from the falls, birds calling in the trees, and sunlight breaking through just often enough to light up the forest. There were smaller “sister” falls along the trails as we walked.
Fitzroy Falls / Photo by Whaldo Digital Content
As birders, we were thrilled. We spotted Australian King-Parrots, Yellow-tailed Black Cockatoos, and—our favorite—the Superb Lyrebird. Plus, we passed several spotted skinks sunbathing along the trail, completely unfazed by us.
After a few hours there, we got back on the road. We took the B73 to the M31, then the A9 to the A32, arriving at our motel in Katoomba, our home base for the next two nights.
Blue Mountains Beauty and a Holiday of Two Truths
The 3 Sisters Motel was exactly what we expected: clean, basic, and perfectly located. A bed, a bathroom, and a fridge—everything we needed for our Blue Mountains adventure.
Let me just say, the Blue Mountains are breathtaking. Towering eucalyptus ridges, dramatic sandstone cliffs, and sweeping, mist-filled valleys. We hiked the cliff-top walks, explored around the Three Sisters Echo Point, and rode the famous Scenic Railway. Stunning.
The Whaldo’s with the Three Sisters at Echo Point / Photo by Whaldo Digital Content
And the birds! I won’t list them all, but one in particular stood out: the Sulphur-crested Cockatoo. They’re everywhere—and loud. Think flocks of cockatoos yelling from treetops. They reminded me of the noisy crows back home in San Diego—just more flamboyant.
By sheer coincidence (which often happens to us), we were in a new country where a national holiday was being observed. We were there on January 26th—Australia Day to some, Survival Day to others. It’s a national holiday that’s both celebrated and mourned. The date marks the arrival of the First Fleet in 1788, which also marks the beginning of British colonization. For Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people, it’s a painful anniversary. It reminded me a bit of how Columbus Day lands back home.
We noticed signs in nearly every shop and café window acknowledging the tribal land on which they sat and expressing gratitude for the land. There was no lack of respect for the mourning, yet it was also a celebration. It resonated deeply.
Conversations that Stay With You
That night, we went to The Old City Bank Bar and Brasserie for a couple of craft brews, then brought them outside to Carrington Place to relax and people-watch. A young man named Mike asked if he could join us. He was originally from the U.S., now living in Australia with his family. He was a very friendly and social fellow and answered our questions about the day’s significance and about living in Australia.
We were having a lovely conversation when a friend of his, Gasper, popped over to join us as well. We chatted until dusk, until Mike had to leave, but we joined Gasper at a nearby bar—Station Bar & Woodfired Pizza.
There, we also met Adam. Gasper and Adam had very different views on the holiday—one in support of Australia Day, one in support of Survival Day. What stood out most was their calm, respectful conversation. Friends, even with different beliefs. At the end of the night, Gasper said, “We all have the same fears and we all have the same hopes. We all want our children to be better than us. So what is there but community?”
We left Katoomba the next morning with full hearts.
Visiting a Friend: Orange and Ms. Rhonda (and Monty)
Our next stop was Orange to visit Ms. Rhonda. It was just under 100 miles away, so we drove the Cliff Drive over to Leura, where we stopped at Gia Café & Bistro for breakfast. It was a cozy little spot with great food—the kind of place that makes your whole morning better.
In Orange, Ms. Rhonda welcomed us like family. We met while cruising through Antarctica and South America, and she quickly became a dear friend. Reuniting felt effortless, like we’d never been apart. As if seeing Ms. Rhonda again wasn’t joy enough, we also got to meet her pup, Monty—an energetic little Corgi.
Meet Monty! Such a joy—and just what we needed while missing Jax. / Photo by Ms. Rhonda
That evening, Ms. Rhonda took us on a drive to Mount Canobolas to show off the views. Afterward, we treated her to dinner at one of her favorite spots—La Milano—for delicious Italian food and wine.
Back at her house, we watched the Big Bash League (BBL) cricket final together. It was the Hobart Hurricanes versus the Sydney Thunder. My husband and I are sports fans, but cricket is a world unto itself. Luckily, we had Ms. Rhonda there to explain it. We watched as Mitchell Owen scored 108 runs off just 42 balls—apparently a huge deal!
The visit was short but sweet. The next day, we said our goodbyes and drove back to Sydney, where we returned our rental car and started the next leg of the journey: exploring Sydney itself.
Full Hearts, Open Roads
We’d already seen so much—valleys draped in mist, curious wombats in roadside yards, coastlines that took our breath away. We met kind strangers and reunited with a dear friend. We laughed over burgers and beer, listened to birds we’d only read about, and stood still while kangaroos grazed just feet away.
But more than that, we felt something. A quiet kind of wonder. A reminder of how vast and beautiful the world can be—and how it opens up when you do.
If you’re planning your own trip, make time to get out of the city. There’s magic beyond Sydney’s skyline—in the winding mountain roads, in the laughter of a kookaburra, in the quiet kindness of people you’ve just met. Those are the moments that stay with you.
Next up: Sydney itself, with all the surprises it had in store.
– J.S. Whaldo
Practical Travel Notes
Exploring beyond Sydney is one of the best ways to experience the diverse landscapes and local cultures that New South Wales has to offer. From coastal towns to cool mountain retreats, the journey is as memorable as the destinations. Renting a car gives you the freedom to follow scenic routes, take detours, and stop for surprises along the way (like warm donuts or wombats in the yard). Be prepared for left-side driving and narrow, winding roads in certain areas. By the way, we rented our car from Simba Car Hire. It was a great price and excellent service.
Where We Stayed:
The Wildes Boutique Hotel, Kangaroo Valley – A quiet boutique stay with friendly service, comfortable rooms, and a great location within walking distance of restaurants and trails. Bonus: Staff are happy to point you toward local wildlife sightings.
3 Sisters Motel, Katoomba – Clean, basic, and perfectly located near Echo Point and the Blue Mountains trails. Affordable and easy, with parking and everything you need for a short stay.
Holiday Inn Express, Mascot (Sydney Airport) – Convenient for a night near the airport. Comfortable rooms, modern amenities, and a good place to recharge after a long flight.
Where We Ate:
Berry Donut Van (Berry) – A must-stop for warm cinnamon-sugar donuts and a light vanilla milkshake. Long lines, but they move fast. Iconic and worth the hype.
The Friendly Inn Hotel (Kangaroo Valley) – Classic country pub with a huge lawn and local vibes. Great for casual pints and comfort food like beef burgers and chips.
Gia Café & Bistro (Leura) – Cozy and welcoming, with a delicious breakfast menu. A perfect start to your day in the mountains.
La Milano (Orange) – A local favorite for Italian food and wine. Warm atmosphere and friendly service—ideal for a relaxed dinner with friends.
Things to Do (Besides Admiring the Views):
Grand Pacific Drive – One of the most scenic coastal drives in New South Wales. Don’t miss the Sea Cliff Bridge and the Kiama Blowhole.
Fitzroy Falls (Morton National Park) – Beautiful rainforest walks, birdwatching, and dramatic waterfall views, especially after rain.
Kangaroo Spotting on Bendeela Road – Head out at dusk for your best chance at seeing kangaroos and wombats. Bring a camera and a sense of wonder. (This link is actually to the campground that we ended up at while on this drive. If you map to this, you’ll most likely come across the kangaroos and then the wombats.)
Blue Mountains National Park – Explore trails near the Three Sisters, ride the Scenic Railway, and take in the valley views.
*** Australia Day / Survival Day Reflections – If visiting in late January, be mindful of the national holiday’s cultural significance and history. Take time to engage, observe, and listen. ***
Notes on Wildlife and Water:
Australia is teeming with wildlife—many species you won’t find anywhere else. Stay alert while driving, especially near dusk. Tap water is generally safe to drink in most places, but it's always a good idea to carry a refillable bottle on hikes and long drives. And yes, those cockatoos really are that loud.
