Iceland’s Golden Circle and Snæfellsnes Peninsula: Reykjavik to Grundarfjordur

In part one of our Iceland adventure, I shared the first two ports from our cruise and how quickly we fell in love with this country. If you missed it, you can read that story here. Now it’s time to pick up where we left off. Our last two days in Iceland took us to Reykjavik, the capital, and Grundarfjordur on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. These ports couldn’t have been more different, but both gave us even more reasons to keep Iceland on our must-return list.

Golden Circle Tour from Reykjavik: An 11-Hour Adventure

Reykjavik is a coastal city in southwest Iceland and the most popular destination for tourists. There is so much to see and do that we did something we’ve only done a few times: we signed up for an 11-hour tour.

Typically, we do a tour for about six hours and then explore on our own. But this time we found one that promised to take us to the places we most wanted to see. We took the plunge, hoping it wasn’t all hype. It wasn’t through the cruise line and was advertised as a small group Golden Circle tour. The ship would be in Reykjavik for 15 hours, so after a light breakfast, we headed out to find our meeting place.

We boarded a small tour van that held only eighteen people, including the guide. The tour was sold out, filled with fellow cruise ship passengers, but it was comfortable for all of us. Our guide, Theo (short for Theodore), got us checked in and settled, then set off on the drive along the Golden Circle. This included a visit to the UNESCO site of Thingvellir, a stop at the Strokkur geyser (the smaller but active sibling of the famous Geysir, which is no longer active), a visit to Gullfoss waterfall, a hike at Kerid crater, and finally a “therapeutic dip” at the Blue Lagoon.

We didn’t feel rushed at any of the stops, which is always a concern when you’re trying to pack so much into eleven hours, especially with how far apart these places were. Theo was not overbearing, and while driving, he educated us on the areas we passed through and the history of where we were going next.

Thingvellir National Park: Walking Between Two Continents

When we reached Thingvellir, Theo told us when and where to meet him once we were done exploring. He invited us to wander at our own pace, and the van group disbanded.

As my husband and I walked through the grounds, we studied the magnificent fissures in the earth caused by the separation of two tectonic plates. It’s profound to witness land where nature literally tore itself apart. And when you're there, taking it all in, you definitely want to keep your phone or camera safe. Drop it, and you’ll never see it again.

We continued across the craggy ground and stood in reflection at the site where Iceland’s parliament gathered from the 10th to the 18th centuries. Although Theo wasn’t leading us, he always seemed to appear just when you needed him to answer a question.

J.S. Whaldo exploring Thingvellir / Photo by Whaldo Digital Content

When we finished exploring Thingvellir, we wandered back toward the parking lot where Theo was waiting near the bus. He pointed out that we still had time to see one more thing in the National Park. He showed us a hidden trail leading behind the craggy rocks and told us to follow it to a waterfall.

My husband and I love little surprises like that, so we happily set out. The day was warming up, and we shed our jackets as we climbed. We went up, then down, and around through the rocks. Just as we were working up a sweat, we turned a corner and the spray from the waterfall hit our skin, instantly cooling us.

Hidden waterfall at Thingvellir / Photo by Whaldo Digital Content

A few other people were there, and we all silently absorbed the natural, undisturbed beauty. After a few minutes of waterfall spray and deep, meditative breaths, I felt renewed and ready for more exploration. My husband and I took hands, smiled at each other, and made our way back to the bus.

Geothermal Baking at Laugarvatn and Strokkur Geyser Eruptions

Theo was very knowledgeable about every place we visited. He even made a couple of extra stops for photos, including one at Laugarvatn Fontana Lake. This is where he educated us on geothermal baking.

This lake is one of several geothermal spots where people bake traditional Icelandic bread in clay pots buried in the sand, where natural hot springs run through. It takes twenty-four hours to bake the bread, and while we were there, we watched people dig up their pots and proudly show us their loaves.

Geothermal Baking at Laugarvatn Fontana Lake. Bakers put rocks on top of their little piles to denote that spot is in use. / Photo by Whaldo Digital Content

When we reached the Strokkur geyser, we had lunch in a cafeteria and enjoyed a bowl of soup with a slice of that bread. It was similar to rye bread, with a rich flavor and dense texture. The cafeteria sat conveniently across from the Strokkur, so we could see it erupt while we dined. After lunch, we found a good spot to watch it up close.

The geyser erupts every five to ten minutes, and we quickly learned to watch for the water to boil a little more aggressively before erupting. That gave us time to ready our cameras. I managed a couple of shots, and my husband captured a full eruption on video.

Short video of the Strokkur geyser erupting. / Video by Whaldo Digital Content

It’s a fascinating area, with many roped-off sections around boiling mud pits, something you definitely don’t want to step into by accident. There were also hot springs here, and the cafeteria and neighboring hotel were using them for baking.

Gullfoss Waterfall: Rainbows and Glacial Power

After we’d had our fill of the Strokkur, Theo drove us to Gullfoss Falls. Located in the canyon of the Hvita River, it’s one of Iceland’s most popular attractions. This was where I finally noticed the crowds of tourists and locals. That didn’t deter us.

Gullfoss is a multi-level waterfall with many platforms for viewing. Just like the prior stops, we all went our own ways to explore. My husband and I walked every platform and trail to see the falls from every angle.

Gullfoss Falls / Photo by Whaldo Digital Content

It was fun to get up close and feel the spray. A nearby glacier feeds the falls, so the water is a striking blue, and the mist is so thick that even on a partly cloudy day, rainbows appeared everywhere. My husband wandered around, pointing at them and calling out, “Look! Unicorn farts!”

(If you’re lost on that comment, see part one of this Iceland series here.)

Kerid Crater: Hiking Into Iceland’s Volcanic Past

Moist from the mist, we loaded the van to head to another wonder: Kerid Crater.

Kerid is a volcanic crater with a lake that formed about 6,500 years ago, considered young in geological terms. We hiked the upper rim, admiring the panoramic view, the red volcanic rock walls, and the aquamarine water below. Then we hiked carefully down into the crater. From the water’s edge, looking up gave the whole place a different perspective.

Kerid Volcanic Crater / Photo by Whaldo Digital Content

This stop was different in that it was the only one on this tour that charged admission. It was included in the tour fee, but Theo had to pay for us all before we entered.  When I asked Theo about it, he said some of the other places had charged parking fees, but this crater was privately owned. A company called Arctic Adventures bought it in 2023 and started charging $5 to get in.

Back in the van, my mind wandered to Joni Mitchell’s “Big Yellow Taxi,” and I found myself thinking about how Iceland values nature over commerce:

“They paved paradise

And put up a parking lot

They took all the trees

Put ‘em in a tree museum

And they charged the people

A dollar and a half just to see ‘em”

It struck me that, aside from a few privately owned spots like Kerid Crater, the breathtaking beauty we’d seen that day was free for everyone to enjoy.

Blue Lagoon and Iceland’s Lava Fields

I had been eager to see the Blue Lagoon, not just for the hot springs but because the nearby volcano had been erupting for months. On the day we visited, August 10, it was quiet, so the lagoon was open. Driving there, we crossed makeshift roads surrounded by steaming lava fields. It was spectacular.

The most recent eruption, from May 29 to June 22, 2024, had produced the largest lava field Iceland had seen. Scientists predicted another eruption within three days of our visit, but it didn’t happen until August 22. We had already witnessed a volcanic eruption on this trip at Stromboli, so what I wanted to see was the fresh volcanic rock formations. That’s precisely what we got.

After two and a half hours at the Blue Lagoon, indulging in mud masks and a glass of wine, we boarded the bus for the drive back to the port. Theo remained quiet, letting us reflect and soak in the Southwest Iceland landscape one last time.

We had gone into this long tour a little wary, but it turned out spectacular. We explored at our own pace, meeting only at designated times. It wasn’t a follow-the-leader tour, which made it low-stress. Even with so many stops, we spent over an hour at each, with nearly two hours at the Geysir area and more than two hours at the Blue Lagoon.

Cruising to Grundarfjordur on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula

We slept well that night. The next morning, we were ready for our final stop in Iceland: Grundarfjordur, a port city in western Iceland on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. This time, our excursion was through the cruise line, which meant a full-size bus packed to the gills.

Snæfellsnes Peninsula Tour: Kirkjufell, Black Sand Beaches, and Helgafell

True to form, that was the case. I don’t recall the guide’s name, but she did a decent job of herding the large group. We spent the day driving the peninsula. It’s beautiful, but none of the stops were especially compelling. What we took away was the raw beauty of the land and some good bird watching.

It was a cloudy day, but we did see the iconic Kirkjufell mountain, said to be the most photographed in Iceland. I hadn’t known that, but once we saw it, it was instantly recognizable. It’s often shrouded in clouds, so it was nice to capture a clear photo.

Kirkufjel Mountain / Photo by Whaldo Digital Content

We also visited Djupalonssandur, a black sand beach rich with history and surrounded by basalt rock formations. I would have loved to spend more time learning about the sites, but the guide was eager to move us along to Helgafell.

The belief in Iceland is that if you climb the Helgafell hill in silence without looking back, you’ll be granted three wishes. Our guide focused less on the wishes and more on the meditative aspect.

My husband and I respected the local custom and followed the ritual, though many of the hundred or so tourists did not. Although it wasn’t my favorite experience, the panoramic view from the top made the climb worthwhile.

Afterward, we stopped at the Arnarstapi Cliffs for photos and, as a bonus, to see nesting black-legged kittiwakes. As birders, my husband and I enjoyed that part.

Everyday Life in Grundarfjordur

The final stop was a local resort with a large restaurant for the tour group. My husband and I lucked out with a window-side table to ourselves. We chose seafood for lunch, and while we dined, we watched locals in the town below go about their Sunday routines.

Kids played together outside while families walked their dogs leash-free to the store and back. A young family pedaled past on bikes, stopping at a playground before continuing. It may sound ordinary, but it felt peaceful, slow, and offered a lovely glimpse of daily life in Iceland.

Although our last excursion was somewhat disappointing, we still found joy in the day. Afterward, we returned to the ship and enjoyed the beautiful sail away from Iceland, our thoughts already wandering toward Greenland.

J.S. Whaldo admiring Iceland from the ship / Photo by Whaldo Digital Content

Iceland That Lingers: Why We’ll Return

My husband and I often reminisce about Iceland. We both hope to return one day to see the Northern Lights. We fell in love with the landscape and culture. The people value lifelong learning, live healthy lives, have a dry sense of humor, and work diligently to preserve the country’s natural beauty. They are proud of Iceland, and I don’t blame them.

Iceland lingers with us. The waterfalls, the sweeping fjords, and the ever-present sheep grazing against such wild backdrops all stay in your memory. If you haven’t been, it’s time to see for yourself why this country captures so many hearts.

-J.S. Whaldo