Have I Ever Told You About…

The Taxi Ride in Invergordon, Scotland?

An Unplanned Day in the Scottish Highlands

We were on a whirlwind retirement trip, specifically a cruise tracing the Vikings’ history. We had three days in Scotland. One in Invergordon and two in Edinburgh. When we arrived at the cruise port in Invergordon, we had no set plans. We walked off the ship, and before jumping on a shuttle bus into town, I noticed a taxi stand with a sign advertising taxi tours.

Always looking for a new adventure, we wandered over and asked the price for a four-hour tour. Once a price was agreed upon, we climbed into an automobile that felt more like a comfortable Uber than a taxi, along with our new friend and driver, James. You can call him Jim.

Meeting Jim, Our Scottish Taxi Driver

Jim was a large Scottish gentleman with a hearty laugh, an infectious smile, and an accent that took me at least thirty minutes to fully grasp and understand. I eventually became the interpreter between him and Mr. Whaldo for the rest of the day.

Jim was thrilled to have us and could not wait to show us his beautiful homeland. Invergordon sits in the northern Highlands of Scotland. It is green and rolling, dotted with farmland, castles, forts, ancient battlegrounds, and, of course, the infamous Loch Ness Monster.

As we drove, Jim told stories of the past and shared tales of the family he raised in the area. We learned about his love of coffee during the day and a nip of whisky before bed. He spoke proudly about the private tours he gives, tracing the story of Jamie and Claire from the Outlander books and television series.

Beating the Crowds in Invergordon

We had a loose list of stops, but Jim had his own timeline. He knew exactly where the cruise ship tours were headed and when they would arrive. He made a point of taking us to each famous spot before the crowds appeared. Along the way, he added a few of his own favorite places that he felt were worth seeing.

At one point, he drove past a well-known fort on Loch Ness, where sightings of the monster were reported. He pointed casually as we passed and said, “There’s the falling-down fort.”

Mr. Whaldo and I looked at each other, silently wondering what we had signed up for.

Loch Ness and the “Falling-Down” Fort

Jim kept driving, then suddenly swept us up a hillside and pulled over. He jumped out of the car and motioned for us to follow. We stepped out and walked to a railing overlooking the loch.

“This is the best view of the fort since it’s falling down and you can’t get into it anymore,” he said. “Plus, you get a good look at the view. You have a feckin’ better chance to see Nessie.”

He giggled, lit a cigarette, and told us to take pictures.

Jim was right. We had a clear view of the fort and could see the crowds below trying to photograph it from every angle. We snapped our photos and took in the sweeping beauty of Loch Ness and the surrounding Highlands.

Outlander Filming Locations at Clava Cairns

Back in the car, Jim drove us to Balnuaran of Clava, an ancient burial site and stone circle where Outlander filmed the famous scene of walking through the stones. The site was nearly deserted. Jim directed me to re-enact the scene while he snapped photos on my phone.

This led a small group of women to ask him to do the same for them. Jim rolled his eyes while we nodded our encouragement. Mr. Whaldo and I laughed as we left him to the ladies and wandered the ancient ruins ourselves.

As we pulled away, two tour buses rumbled into the dirt parking lot. Jim smiled and drove on.

Cawdor Castle Without the Tour Buses

Next, Jim took us to Cawdor Castle and its gardens. As we walked up, a friend of his rushed out and motioned for us to come inside quickly. The tour buses were on their way.

Jim hurried us in, and suddenly we had the castle nearly to ourselves. We explored at our own pace, room by room. Just as we finished touring the interior, the crowds arrived. Perfect timing. We escaped into the gardens and missed them entirely.

Mr. and Mrs. Whaldo at Cawdor Castle / Photo by Jim

Highland Cattle, Coffee, and Local Hospitality

Soon after, Jim drove us to a local farm where we met two Highland cattle named Jamie and Claire, a fitting nod to Outlander. The farm owners greeted Jim warmly and handed him a cup of fresh coffee. We sampled homemade treats and enjoyed the easy familiarity between friends.

Culloden Battlefield and Scottish History

Jim then took us to Culloden Battlefield, the site of the last and bloodiest battle of the Jacobite uprising. He walked us through the grounds, speaking passionately about Scottish history and the fight for freedom from British rule.

We listened quietly, running our hands over the stone walls etched with the names of fallen clans. Jim spoke of farmers, merchants, and everyday people who rose together to fight for what they believed in.

We bought our friend coffee and a sandwich for lunch at the Culloden Monument museum and happily listened as he answered our questions. Before we left, he insisted that Mr. Whaldo and I take part in a quick Irish whisky tasting offered inside.

The Drive Back to Invergordon Port

On the drive back to the cruise port, Jim talked nonstop, sharing stories from his life in the Highlands. He pointed out scenic overlooks and stopped for photos, including the Culloden Viaduct.

He admitted that he once told a tourist it was the railway used by the Harry Potter train. He laughed hard and said that at the time, he had no idea what the tourist meant, so he had simply agreed. He later looked it up and swore he would never tell that lie again.

I believed him. It was not his nature to mislead. It was his nature to share the beauty and history of his land.

A Private Tour Worth Remembering

When our half-day adventure ended, we hugged Jim goodbye, feeling as though we had just spent the most magical day with a friend rather than a guide.

We have never regretted skipping a traditional tour in Invergordon. What we experienced instead was invaluable.

A private day with our friend, Jim, from Invergordon.

- J.S. Whaldo