From the Alps to the Rhine: Experiencing Switzerland’s Beauty and Culture
Boarding the Bernina Express: A Train Journey Through the Alps
Early one morning in Tirano, we boarded the bright red Bernina Express, ready to ride through the Alps of Italy into Switzerland. The snowcapped peaks outside the window looked like something out of a postcard, and by day’s end, we would cross the country by rail all the way to Basel.
That journey almost didn’t happen. In Italy, we had nearly missed the climb from Edolo to Tirano, where the Bernina Express departs. You can read about that adventure here. Despite the challenges, we made it in time, and the next morning the train carried us through the Alps of Italy into the Alps of Switzerland, where we switched in Chur and continued our rail adventure across the country.
The Bernina Express is a fantastic train ride. The beauty of nature along the route is mesmerizing and life-changing. A large portion of the journey, known as the Rhaetian Railway in the Albula/Bernina Landscape, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The Bernina portion of the ride took about four and a half hours with a few planned stops, not to pick up passengers, but simply to take in the surreal scenery. Forests stretched along steep slopes, villages dotted the valleys, glaciers shimmered in the sunlight, and glacial lakes glowed with brilliant, otherworldly colors. The crisp Alpine air filled my lungs and made everything feel alive.
Alp Grum and Glacier Views: A Stop Along the UNESCO Bernina Route
One of my favorite stops was a small place called Alp Grum. It’s a hotel and restaurant, and a popular starting point for hikers, because it sits right near a glacier, a glacial lake, and countless trails winding through the surrounding mountains.
The ride also features remarkable bridges, including the Brusio Circular Viaduct. The entire journey is a feat of engineering. Cliff sides and winding paths dominate the harsh landscape that the track meanders through. Being afraid of heights, I expected to feel nervous, but I was so captivated by the scenery that I completely forgot to be scared.
Crossing Switzerland by Rail: From Chur to Basel
At Chur, we switched trains and headed northwest, passing stunning landscapes, small villages, and sparkling lakes. The largest lake in Lucerne was alive with people enjoying their holiday during the summer. Watching the boats, swimmers, and families reminded me of my own childhood summers spent at the lake, boating, fishing, and diving in.
Basel Adventures: Exploring the City with a BaselCard
About two and a half hours later, we arrived in Basel and walked a short distance to our hotel, the Marriott. After checking in and freshening up, we were eager to head back out and start exploring.
One of the things I loved about Basel was that hotels provide visitors with a transportation pass, the BaselCard. It let us ride trains and buses as much as we wanted during our stay and included free transport to the airport on our last day. The Marriott sits across from the exhibition center, a hub for buses and trains, and their easy-to-use transportation app made it simple to get anywhere.
We walked a lot that first evening, but the following day, we jumped on trains and buses to get around. Crossing the Rhine River, we made our way to the highly anticipated Paper Museum.
The Paper Museum of Basel: History, Hands-On Fun, and Surprising Joy
Yes, I get it; you’re probably wondering, "Why would anyone in their right mind want to visit a paper museum on vacation?" That sounds like the kind of place you only go to as a chaperone on a child’s field trip, just because it’s your turn to wrangle the kids.
You would be wrong.
The history of toilet paper. Everyone, note how it is intended to be hung on the roll. Debate over. / Photo by Whaldo Digital Content
The museum was fascinating. We learned about the history of paper, pens, and ink presses, and even got to make paper ourselves. The pulp, a sort of tree “mulch” floating in water, had to be carefully pressed to remove the excess liquid. It took strength to use the press, but the result was delicate, smooth sheets that felt like the kind of fancy paper used for invitations. You could even press a design into it, a mark of where it was made. As a writer, I was utterly captivated. Even my dear husband, who could not understand why I was so excited, had a great time. The history of the paper mills in Basel is profound and was critical to the rest of Europe.
Swiss National Day: Festivals, Fountains, and Riverside Fun
As I’ve said, it was the middle of summer when we arrived, and true to form, we stumbled into one of the biggest celebrations of the year. On August 1st, Swiss National Day fills Basel with festivities, culminating in fireworks launched from barges on the Rhine at 11 PM. Somehow, we have an uncanny knack for finding ourselves in these celebrations, entirely by accident.
After leaving the paper museum on the 30th, we wandered across the Rhine to the “old” side of Basel. The Basler Munster, a beautiful chapel dating back to the 9th century, rose above the cobblestone streets. Hidden viewing platforms tucked in trees overlooked the river, and historic buildings and castles peeked out among the streets, where people were setting up booths, makeshift markets, and stages. The city expected over 120,000 visitors for the festival.
Then we noticed the fountains. I had read that people cool off in them, but I couldn’t picture it. These are true little fountains, often with statues, like the ones where you usually toss coins. Some are deeper, some shallower, tucked around corners. Turn one corner and you might see an entire family in bathing suits, splashing around like a public pool. The next fountain might be tiny, and people dip just their heads or bodies while fully clothed. It feels strange, maybe even uncomfortable, but you can’t help trying it yourself. We didn’t hesitate. We stuck our heads in, laughed, and constantly refilled our water bottles, joining in the playful chaos.
Floating and Laughing Along the Rhine at Basel’s Buvettes
Instead of taking public transport back, we continued walking to the Mittlere Brücke, a historic stone bridge. From there, we crossed back to the “new” Basel and paused to watch people floating in the Rhine. They wrapped their arms around colorful waterproof bags and let their bodies drift with the current, bobbing and laughing in the sun.
We found a pub right on the water, a Buvette, a small riverside café open during the floating season. As we sat, I watched friends and families climb out of the river, some slipping on shorts over bikinis or little pool dresses, others using towels held by friends to put on dry clothes after rinsing off. Laughter filled the air, tables around us quickly filling as more people arrived. Despite the many languages spoken, English surfaced often, and jokes and conversations naturally spilled from table to table. We felt completely immersed in this joyful riverside culture, welcomed into the rhythm of the day. Families, groups of friends, people of all ages, everyone shared in the celebration.
It was a warm summer day, low 80s, not blazing hot like the deserts of California, but perfect for floating, laughing, and enjoying the sunshine. The Buvette itself was charmingly efficient: you ordered at a half-door counter, food came out the next door over, pints were handed directly to you, and another small door served as the drop-off point when you finished. Customers wiped tables for the next group, a small reflection of Swiss pride and cleanliness that was visible everywhere.
Mount Pilatus: Hiking, Cable Cars, and the Steepest Cog-Wheel Train
The next day, as the city continued preparing for the evening festivities, we caught a train back to Lucerne. From there, we rode a funicular partway up Mount Pilatus, then a cable car the rest of the way to the summit. We spent the day hiking the many trails up, around, and through the mountains. Slowly, but we did all the peaks, savoring the fresh mountain air and breathtaking views.
After finishing all of our hiking, we rode the cog-wheel train down. It is the steepest in the world, holding the world record for this fact, and it raised my heart rate faster than I care to admit. Although it doesn’t go very fast, it is an authentic cog-wheeled train that has been in use since 1889. The trip down takes about half an hour and reaches a steepness of 48 degrees. There are parts where you feel like you are leaning forward, looking straight down. I’ve been on other cog-wheel trains around the world, but this one was definitely the steepest.
The Lion of Lucerne: A Moving Encounter
Once down the mountain, we took a bus to another section of Lucerne so we could see the Lion of Lucerne. As we rounded a corner in the park, we found ourselves right in front of a small pool of water with the lion carved into the rock above it. The cove felt almost private; only a few people sat on nearby benches, and the trees and shape of the cove blocked the breeze, making it feel a little warmer and even slightly stifling. Somehow, that made the experience even more fitting.
Lion of Lucerne (Weeping Lion) / Photo by Whaldo Digital Content
As my eyes landed on the lion, I took a deep breath and froze. The sculpture has the saddest look on its face, and before I knew it, tears were rolling down my face. My dear husband put his arm around me and guided me closer. We stood in silence for about ten minutes, letting me feel the weight of it.
The lion, known as the dying or weeping lion of Lucerne, was carved from living rock to commemorate the Swiss guardsmen who died in 1792 during the French Revolution. I had seen photos before, and I cried then, but seeing it in person brought a surge of emotion I could not control.
It is, in my opinion, one of the most emotional pieces of art I have ever experienced. It ranks right up there with the statues of the Shoes on the Danube Bank along the riverfront in Budapest, which also moved me to immediate tears.
Celebrating Swiss National Day in Basel
Once I was back in control of my emotions, we walked to the train station and returned to Basel for the Swiss National Day celebration. The train was packed with people heading in the same direction, all buzzing with anticipation.
After freshening up at the hotel, we stepped out into the streets, now closed to traffic and already filling with revelers. Laughter echoed through the air, and the aroma of freshly baked pretzels and other treats wafted from restaurants and food stalls. Music came from every direction as people sang, ate, and talked. Families and friends perched on benches, sat on the ground, or along the edges of the riverbank walls. Closer to the Rhine, the crowd thickened, and the river itself was lined with spectators, creating a sense of joyful chaos. Unlike festivals in the States, there were no barriers—people moved freely, mingling and celebrating without hostility or tension. It was pure joy, and we felt completely immersed in it.
We joined in, wandering through the crowds and savoring the music, the food, and the laughter. After a full day of hiking, we lingered as long as our energy allowed. Neither of us is twenty-something any longer, and closing down a party happens very rarely these days. Officially, the celebrations continued until two in the morning, but private gatherings carried on long after. We returned to our hotel exhausted but happy, sleeping soundly despite the late hour.
Basel’s Summer Streets: Quiet Morning Strolls and Local Life
We had one last day in Switzerland, and at first, we had planned a day trip out of Basel to explore Freiburg, Germany, since it was so close. But we had fallen in love with Basel and its people. We had barely scratched the surface of this beautiful city.
The next morning, stepping into the streets, we found it quiet and far cleaner than I had expected after the large crowd. The early light glinted off cobblestones and historic buildings, and the air still carried a trace of the previous night’s festivities. Many locals were still sleeping, and most stores were closed. Near the festival areas, a few eateries were open for tourists, and the little stalls along the Rhine were ready for those who wanted to float down the river.
Brezelkönig in Basel, the perfect snack stop / Photo by Whaldo Digital Content
With trains running on a limited schedule that day, it made sense to meander through the city instead of venturing farther. As the day unfolded, more people emerged, gathering in parks and along the riverbanks. The celebrations continued into Thursday, August 1st, the official Swiss National Day, though now on a smaller, more personal scale. Families and friends took the day as an excuse to come together and enjoy one another’s company.
We spent the day exploring, stopping at a sports pub to watch a couple of qualifying soccer matches. Cheering and laughing alongside locals, we drank from fountains and cooled off in the Rhine. Although it wasn’t as hot as the previous two days, the weather was still warm enough for us to agree that anyone visiting Basel in summer should not miss floating or wading in the river.
We retired to our room early that night. The city itself had gone quiet in the evening hours of this national holiday. The next morning, we checked out of our hotel, caught a bus to the airport, and flew to Amsterdam for the next leg of our journey.
Why Switzerland Stays in Your Heart
Even as we left, we knew we would return to Switzerland. There is so much more to explore, and Basel has captured our hearts. This little detour reminded us that travel is about more than the sights; it is about the people, the culture, and the unexpected moments that stay with you long after you leave. I expected to love Switzerland, but I didn’t realize just how deeply it would leave its mark.
Every country has its politics and problems, but it is the warmth of the people and the richness of the culture that make each place unique. Switzerland is a place I highly recommend, for its breathtaking beauty and its vibrant, welcoming culture.
If you haven’t been to Switzerland, I hope you go. I’ve only visited in the summer, but I hear every season brings its own kind of magic.
Travel with curiosity, respect, and an open heart, and let the places you visit leave your heart smiling, just as Switzerland has left ours.
- J.S. Whaldo
