The bus stop was nothing more than a sign on a pole, which should have been our first clue that public transit in Vancouver comes with a side of improvisation. When the bus arrived, we asked how to pay. “Swipe your credit card,” said the driver. I swiped once. When I tried for my husband, it wouldn’t take it. We needed a second card. I had only brought one. Cue the awkward shuffle in a bus packed like sardines and a driver clearly on a tight schedule. He rolled his eyes, handed us tickets, mumbled instructions, and we stood, smiling nervously at strangers as the bus lurched forward.

Alaska’s glaciers are where I first learned to appreciate the beauty in shades of blue, white, and grey ice. It is where I learned to stand quietly and listen to the soft popping deep inside the ice. It is also where I discovered how thrilling it is to witness a glacier calve. There is nothing like watching a massive chunk of ancient, layered ice crack, roar, and break free before splashing into the sea and drifting away as a newborn iceberg. It never stops feeling awe-inspiring.

Ralph showed up at the airport with an extra parka, scarf, waterproof winter boots, and lined mittens. I changed into the boots, and then he quickly got to work. He layered the gear on me, pulled the scarf over most of my face, and cinched the fuzzy-lined hood down tight. The last piece was a pair of sunglasses to shield my eyes. We walked toward the door, both of us giggling.

It was gray outside, and I felt a jolt of excitement at finally experiencing Alaska. As we approached the door, I caught my reflection in the glass. I looked like the kid from A Christmas Story, stiff and awkward under all the winter gear. Right before the door opened, Ralph told me to blink often to protect my eyeballs.

I’ve made five trips to Alaska so far, three by air and two by sea. I genuinely believe everyone should cruise Alaska at least once. Still, my favorite way to visit is to fly in, rent a car, take a few train rides, or even take a floatplane excursion to visit remote, smaller towns.

Some places shine from the water. Glacier Bay is unforgettable, and many of the cruise stops sit on Alaska’s islands. The train ride from Fairbanks down to Seward is one of my favorite trips in the entire state. The stretch between Anchorage and Seward is the standout. Then again, nothing compares to flying over Denali National Park. Alaska is full of impossible choices like that.

On cruise ship days (typically Saturdays and Sundays, with Saturday being the busiest), vendors line the Embarcadero all the way from the cruise terminal south to Seaport Village and north past Waterfront Park.  The foot traffic can be enormous, depending on how many ships are in port that day.  With Norwegian Cruise Line adding San Diego as a start-and-stop port, there is rarely only one ship in port at a time.